Things are different in Ajijic. Often not jarringly different and maybe not even noticed at first. Here are examples in no particular order.
The Moon is higher in the sky. Ajijic is closer to the equator. That means the sun is higher too, so her rays wash the earth more directly, meaning sun screen is even more important.
I have written about sidewalks and the cobblestone streets, but wait, there's more. I am used to building codes of a litigious culture that require stairs to be uniformed and predictable. The distance from the curb to the street always the same, not requiring thought when walking. Not so in Jalisco. You are responsible for the consequences if you choose to walk in Mexico. A curb or stairs are what they are, each unique and sometimes an adventure. You as the walker, are required to make the adjustment. Are you walking off a standard curb or off the top of a low wall? Don’t assume. This is true for village streets or floors in a restaurant. I nearly landed in the middle of a table, stepping off a raised café floor. Rocks, studs, poles, branches, wires and various projectiles protrude from the paths, walls and overhangs. It is best that you learn to adjust. If you choose to walk and talk, don’t turn around while you move forward.
Litter, branches, construction debris, garbage and animal feces are in the street and sometimes on the sidewalks. Cars park on the sidewalks. Walk around it all or cross to the other side of the street.
Which side of the street you walk makes a difference. One side is in the shadow and is cooler. Except in the middle of the day. See above: sun directly overhead. I have a new appreciation for the siesta. There are fewer locals in the plaza at midday. Vacationers don’t know any better. That means construction workers (along with their noise) may work late into the cool of the evening.
Ajijic is noisy. Trucks drive by slowly loud music playing or the driver yelling into a loudspeaker. They may call for people to get their natural gas, water or to bring out their junk for recycling (had to ask about that one.) The bread salesman with his trunk full of baked goods may take up residence on your corner with his stereo blasting. This is all just the background music of the village. During festivals, or parties, or funerals, streets may be blocked off with revelers, bands, mariachi, high output speakers and fireworks. This may go on all night. Well, it usually stops by four and starts again with an early call to Mass about six.
Our Air B n B is close to the plaza and the church. This church has a bell tower full of bells. We haven’t fully figured out the bell pattern other than the striking of the hour, and quarter hours. It varies on Sunday and on special occasions. Both recorded bell music and traditional tolling of the bells, occasionally at the same time. The dogs join in, adding to the cacophony. The bells go silent at night. Thank you, bell ringers.
You may share your dining experience with cats, dogs, the cook’s children or an occasional peacock. The children are well mannered and delightful. The dogs are usually polite and will move on if ignored. Peacocks must be fed, if you know what’s good for you.
Not only can you make eye contact with strangers, you can and should, talk with them. Often fellow travelers or, better yet, expats willing to share insights and advice. We recently sat in a sidewalk café, tables very close together. Following US approved restaurant protocol, we ignored the woman at the next table. To our surprise, she put down her phone and said hello. A half hour later, we heard much of her story, her plans, her joys and concerns about moving to Mexico. When we left, we exchanged business cards and a promised to stay connected. Don’t know if it will really happen, but later that same day, we reintroduced ourselves to a woman who called us by name on the sidewalk. We met her the last time we were here in September. I still have her card in my wallet.
With all the surprises we have experienced on our adventure so far, the best is the realization of the importance of community, in its many shapes and forms, still exists in Ajijic. Yes, things are different in Ajijic. We are strangers only until we choose not to be.
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